The new guy is going to be expensive to educate

I have bags under my eyes. This is the result of tending to the sleeping/eating/pooping habits of a 1 week old. The bags under my eyes went away when I decided to run the numbers on what it will take to send young Teddy P. to college in 18 years. Wide awake.

According to the calculator on SavingForCollege.com, it will cost me over $460k to send young Theodore to Hanover College (my alma mater). This means that I would need to deposit $794 per month into a college fund in order to fully fund his education. Want to see what it will cost you for your children? Here’s the link. Enjoy. And by enjoy, I mean throw up in your mouth a little bit.

How to budget so that you can stay at home with the kids

My daughter Ollie says it everyday, “Daddy, you came back from work!” She says it that exact way. Her concept of object permanence is clearly still lacking. Every time that I hear it, a part of me wants to sell everything that we have, move to a remote shack in the woods, and spend every waking moment of our lives together. Fortunately, I snap out of this lovely idea the second that I hear Dora scream “vámonos!” from the unattended television in the living room. Nonetheless, I love my daughter, and often consider what it would take to stay home and raise her.

If you’ve ever had the thought, “How can one of us stay home and raise the kids while the other person brings home enough income to support us?”, then you aren’t alone. It may be a legitimate goal of yours, or it may simply be a pipe dream, but is it possible? Yes! It’s very possible. You just need a plan. Fortunately, my name isn’t Pete the Aimless, it’s Pete the Planner. Let’s do it.

Constructing a plan to stay at home 

What goes away when you stop working? Right, your value. KIDDING!!! Your income. But the good news is that other things disappear when you stop working. Things like fuel costs, work lunches, and possibly daycare costs. These expenses are important components to what I like to call the “Stay At Home Net Difference Index.” Yes, I made that up. But fortunately, it’s brilliant.  Here’s how it works.

Identify the income that is lost. For instance, if you’re take-home pay is $2500 per month, then you would lose this amount of income if you stayed home from work. That is unless you can convince your boss to let you work from home. That is different blog post altogether, but a good one nonetheless. But we can’t stop there. You may have lost $2500 per month, but you will most likely save some money by not working too.

Here are list of expenses that will go away or be reduced when you stop working. Calculate how much money will be saved by eliminating each category.

  • Fuel
  • Work lunch
  • Work clothes
  • Certifications/licences
  • Daycare (if currently paying for it)
  • Other
Add up all of these expenses, and then subtract them from the income that you lost. If your total expenses saved equals $1600 per month, then subtract that from our hypothetical $2500 per month of income. That means that your Stay At Home Net Difference Index is $900. It’s what you do next that matters the most.

 

Bridging the gap

Alright, you will be down $900 from your pre-stay-at-home income. There are SEVERAL ways to bridge the gap. FIrst, if you are following Pete the Planner’s Ideal Household Budget, then you will be saving 10% of your take home pay. That means that you can reduce the $900 by another $250. See what I did there? 10% of $2500 is $250. If you aren’t earning the income, then you aren’t saving the money.

Another way to bridge the gap is to be very purposeful with the way that you mind your spending on all of your other categories. Can you dine out less? Can you get a competitive quote on your auto and homeowners insurance? If you want to stay at home, then you must sacrifice some expenses that you have previously taken as necessary.

You can also Increase your household income to fill that $900 void. I know that I just reduced it by $2500, but you can always raise it again with some focused effort. If you have the skills to freelance, then consider doing enough work to earn you at least $900 per month. Or the working spouse can become more purposeful about increasing his/her income. He/she can look for overtime, commission, or other bonus opportunities.

Run the numbers

You owe it to your family to run the numbers. Staying at home with just one income is much more achievable than you might think. It requires sacrifice, but you can do it with proper planning.

Inheriting poor financial skills is a real problem

Our parents and grandparents didn’t face all the problems we do today as we try establish a financial foundation. The funny thing is that we brought these problems on ourselves by trying to simplify our lives. Our predecessors didn’t have debit cards, lengthy credit terms, and interest-only loans. Rather, most of our grandparents (when they were our age) cashed their paychecks and put the household cash into different envelopes representing different budget categories. They’d pay bills out of those envelopes and always have enough money to cover the expense. It was hard for them to go backwards financially because they relied on cash. They couldn’t, for example, buy fifty dollars of groceries with thirty dollars in cash.

What do we do now? We log onto our online banking accounts to see if we have enough money to cover the purchase we made earlier in the day. We spend first and worry about the consequences second. With this mentality, it doesn’t matter if you are in the 1950s or 2050s, you’re going to go broke.

Yes, managing your financial life is harder nowadays. Yes, peer pressure is worse than ever. And yes, some people make a lot more money than you. But if you are truly focused on bettering your life, you will ignore what’s irrelevant. More money doesn’t solve maladies caused by meager money management; more money only magnifies these money maladies. Mm-hmm!

Despite these money differences among generations, most of the skills that you need to function financially were instilled in you by your parents. And sadly enough, this is the root of several problems . If your parents didn’t know what they were doing, then your chances of innately knowing what you are doing are slim. And the problem gets worse when you factor in your parents’ level of financial confidence. Your parents’ financial aptitude can be classified into a few categories:

  1. They knew what they were doing and passed it on. This is the best-case scenario. They had solid financial habits, they led by example, and they educated you along the way. In addition, they cut you off when they should have. They also saved money for you, taught you how to save money, and showed you exactly what to do with it.
  2. They knew what they were doing but didn’t bother or didn’t have the time (for whatever reason) to teach you any of it. This is a pretty rare scenario, but definitely one worth mentioning.
  3. They had no clue about how to manage money properly, and they set a bad financial example for you. You still love them. They still love you. We aren’t voting them off the island. We’re just agreeing that they didn’t teach you many good financial habits.
  4. They had no clue what they were doing, but they thought they did. This is a flat-out dangerous situation for everyone. If you inherited a get-rich-quick mentality, a blame-other-people-for-your-financial-problems mentality, or a game-the-bankruptcy-laws mentality, then we have some serious work to do.

Not only do you need to learn how to budget, but how, in some cases, to reverse years of financial socialization. It’s time to face the facts of your financial upbringing. Bluntly, it may have sucked. That’s okay. But that doesn’t mean that you have to perpetuate the suckiness of the past. Standup for your present. Standup for your future.

And even more is at stake. If you are a parent, your children may already be picking up some of these bad habits. Your problem may have become multi-generational. Therefore, as you sharpen your skills as an adult, realize that your own children are watching you now—and they’re making mental notes.

If you have a bad relationship with money, then your children will have a bad relationship with money. If you give your kids all the luxuries in life—but don’t show them that luxuries come through hard work and wise investing—then they won’t understand the value of a dollar.

Tomorrow I plan on making a gigantic announcement here at PeteThePlanner.com. I encourage you to come back tomorrow at 8am to see what has me so excited. Here’s your hint: There’s been something bothering me for a very long time, and tomorrow I am  going to scream about it very loud, for a very long time, to as many people that will listen. Tomorrow is the true beginning of an insane 2012 for me. I hope you can be part of it.

This post is an excerpt from What Your Dad Never Taught You About Budgeting (due to be released March 6th 2012).

Just inherited $90k, now what?

I love getting your email questions. I really do. I received one the other day that may be one of my all time favorites. Check it out.

Pete

Love your blog, there’s a lot of great advice on it.  Between you and Dave Ramsey I can almost always find the answer to any question of situation.  Thanks for putting so much information out there!

I come from a family that has a horrible relationship with money.  On one end of the spectrum family members practically hoard money and can’t have a logical conversation about buying anything that costs more than $10, and on the other end my “most successful” family, makes 7 -figures and still manages to have a negative net worth.  So figuring out money has been a challenge for my husband and I and we really don’t have good person to run ideas by… So I thought I’d ask you.

We currently have about 6K in savings that we don’t touch in the event one of us would loose a job.  We make a combined 102K a year.  We have almost 220K in student loans left to pay off.

My husband just inherited 90K.  Some think we should stick it under the mattress, and others think it would make a great down payment on a 500K home.  Neither of those a good option, clearly, so here is what we were thinking.

We don’t have any children yet, 20K of the 90K would go towards adoption.  With the other We would like to purchase a property for $70K.  Our 3 options are a property ready to go, one that would cost $20K and need about $40K in work, and a lot that is $20K with a house plan that we can build for $40K.  Although we could start the adoption process now, we were told it is much better if we have a house, rather than saying we would be moving out of our tiny 1 bedroom when we adopted.

Our thought is, if we didn’t have to pay rent/mortgage each month, it would take us a lot less time over all to finally pay off that $220K in student loans.  But we are wondering if we are hurting ourselves in the long run by not throwing that $90K at student loans initially.

Any thoughts, just wondering if it sounds like a good idea?  I think I’ve thought of everything, but I thought I would run it by a third person for some feedback.

M.A.

Awesome question. You have the chance to make an AMAZING decision right now. I have seen several people inherit much more than $90k, and in most cases the money was either wasted, or it didn’t provide the sort of impact that this $90k will have on you. Here is what you need to consider.

  1. Taxes- Don’t forget about taxes. I don’t know the details of your inheritance, but don’t forget to set some aside for Uncle Sam. That is unless you inherited the money from your deceased Uncle Sam. If that’s the case, then I’m sorry for the Uncle Sam reference. This is spiraling out of control. Just pay your damn taxes.
  2. Emergency reserves- Having only $6k in savings given your $100k income is a bit worrisome. I’m not going to lose sleep over it, but you should. You should have AT LEAST three months expenses set aside. You make at least $6k net per month. That means that if your expenses are anywhere near your income, then you need $18k set away. I think you should at least put $4k of the $90k in savings to get you up to $10k, and then set money aside from your income on a monthly basis.
  3. Student loans- I’m not going to lie. $220k in student loans made me throw up in my mouth a lil bit. That’s a ton! I usually tell people that student loans are like a having another house, but one that you can’t live in. But you are talking about getting a house that is 1/3 the cost of your student loans. Based on my ideal household budget, you can put 25% of your household income towards housing. Since you don’t plan on having a house payment, you can put that hypothetical $1500 per month towards your student loans (that’s in addition to a what you are already paying towards those loans). Let’s assume for a second that you don’t pay anything in interest (which obviously isn’t the case), it’s going to take around 12 years to pay off these student loans with $1500/month payments.
  4. Your house- So you want to be a homeowner? Cool. I’m glad that you are thinking straight in regards to not using the inheritance as a down payment, but instead viewing the inheritance as a full payment. This restraint will serve you well. Just know that you will still need to pay property taxes, insurance, increased utility bills, and maintenance expenses. I’m not trying to piss in your Cheerios, I’m just letting you know that paying cash for your house won’t end the costs associated with homeownership.
  5. Adoption- Congrats! What a great decision. Not to get all sappy here, but adding a family member in the wake of losing a family member is a wonderful thing. However, it’s been my experience (assisting several peeps over the years) that adoption will cost more than $20k. I hope this isn’t the case for you, but I believe it will be. Just know that you may need to set more aside for the adoption than you think.
All in all, M.A., you are in a pretty sweet spot. But the decisions you make now will impact you greatly over the next few decades. I believe that you are thinking straight, and I hope that my “things to consider” helps you even more. 

Repairing financial wounds at Thanksgiving dinner

Yesterday we spent quite a bit of time discussing what’s wrong with Thanksgiving/Black Friday. Let’s get past that. Like I mentioned in that post, if you aren’t part of the solution, then you are part of the problem. My rant is over. Let’s get better.

Thanksgiving = family. And if any of your familial relationships are damaged for financial reasons, then this Thursday the healing begins. You are no longer allowed to bury your head in the sand. Especially once you’ve read this post which will pick the scab off the wound…just prior to us starting the healing process. (Okay, that was a little gross. I’m a bit squeamish. I wish I hadn’t written that, but alas I’m too lazy to delete it. I’d rather just explain it away with a digression.)

Family financial wounds are damaging for several reasons. By righting the wrong, you will begin to heal all the different types of damage that the wrong caused. For example, let’s say that you’ve borrow $500 from your favorite Uncle Rick. As you know, Rick has a mustache. Pete the Planner Bonus Fact: 90% of people named Rick have mustaches. This debt has existed for a while. And you haven’t made any real effort to pay him back. What sort of damage has this unaddressed debt caused?

  1. Non-transparent communication- It was your deep connection with Rick that allowed him to really understand your financial conundrum. It’s this same deep connection that has you clammed up as you ignore your debt to him. Things just aren’t the same. You can’t even share your career success stories with him. “If things are so good, why isn’t he/she paying me back,” he might wonder. And if things are so good, why in the hell aren’t you paying him back, I wonder.
  2. Rick lost his pension- But why would you know? It’s something that we doesn’t really share with anyone. While $500 used to not be that big of deal fro Uncle Rick, it is now. He’s secretly getting pissed about it. Oh, and he hates your new car because of this. He doesn’t care that it’s a lease.
  3. Any financial progress that you are seeing is false financial progress- Things are finally starting to turn around for you…or so you think. People conveniently forget to tell me about personal loans that they took from their family and friends. That’s why I always ask about them. Just because there isn’t a loan document, doesn’t mean that the debt doesn’t exist. Not to get all cosmic-Oprah on you here, but I don’t think you can consider yourself financially viable until you fully acknowledge that debt. And I mean really acknowledge it. Like talk about it – acknowledge it. And if your Uncle Rick has conceded in any way, shape, or form by now calling the loan “a gift”, then you REALLY need to get to work. I don’t really care if he has absolved you of your obligation to pay him. In my book, you will always owe him the money. If he has called it a gift a couple of years ago, but now he is hurting financially, then he is unlikely to tell you. Do the right thing.

Crap, now what? The good news is that it isn’t too late. And what’s better is that I’m going to now tell you the EXACT right way to fix it. Stepping up and doing the right thing in this uncomfortable situation will be the first step towards your financial rebirth. Hyperbole? Nope. It’s true. Taking ownership of your decisions is such an important step in your financial development. Good decisions are generally made by confident people. You will generally lack confidence if you are embarrassed by your financial behavior. There isn’t anything much more embarrassing than shafting your Uncle Rick out of the money you owe him. See what I’m sayin’?

Here’s the plan. You are going to bridge the gap. What? You’re concerned that you don’t have enough money to pay Slick Rick back? Don’t worry about that. Follow these steps:

  1. Be subtle- Sorry, but you don’t get to take credit for this. You don’t get to tell anyone other than your significant other or your Uncle Rick what you are doing. This isn’t one of those things that you announce right before the family prayer This is not a broadway production of your one man show “The Guy That Finally Paid His Debt.” Just settle the hell down, and focus on the execution of this thing.
  2. Get a card- Delivering a soliloquy that will change your financial life can be a little nerve wracking. Therefore, avoid the possibility of doing this wrong. Write it down. Is this the Nancy-ass way out of it? Nope. This is way too important for you to risk saying the wrong thing. You are going to write a simple note.
  3. Write a check for a nominal amount- This is an act of goodwill. This isn’t repaying the national debt. Write a check to Rick for $25-$50. Slip the check into the card. You are going to write this same check every single month until you pay back Rick. I don’t know why people feel like they can only repay family debts with one giant check, but that is a ridiculous notion. You don’t pay your bank back for your mortgage loan in one big chunk do you? Of course not.
  4. Write the following message- Uncle Rick, Enclosed you will find a check for $__. It is my first payment towards the $____ I owe you. My financial struggles should not extend to those that I love. Thank you so much for believing in my ability to repay my debts. Your confidence in me means the world to me. I won’t let you down. Happy Thanksgiving.
If you choose to go through this process on Thursday, then you need to let me know. I will send you a free book. I’m very proud of you in advance. Several of my clients have done this, and it was the beginning of their financial brilliance. Congrats on your willingness to take control of your financial life once again.

An open letter to my son

Junk town. On Tuesday I found out that Mrs Planner and I are having a baby boy. I’m already a dad to a lovely little lady, and I’m very excited to meet my son later next spring. I can’t possibly imagine that being the father of a son is any better than being the father of a daughter, but time will tell…me the obvious. The relationship that I had with my father is/was amazing. I want to get off to a good start with my boy. Since he can’t read…yet, this is my first letter to him. While money doesn’t define me, its understanding is what I have committed my life to. Therefore, this letter is my best stuff. This is: what I would tell my own son about money in 500 words or less.

Hi Son,

I love you. I wanted “I love you” to be the first words that you ever read from me. It’s important that you know that I love you, because I’m about to talk to you about relationships. Relationships are life. Your relationships will define you. Your ability to nurture, grow, and maintain relationships will make your life either easy or hard. But here’s the rub, boy, many things will disguise themselves as something other than a relationship, when in fact, all things are related to relationships.

Take for example, money. Money appears to be about everything except relationships. Money seems to be about getting what you want. Money seems to be about giving you things that you need. But it’s not. Money is about relationships. Why do your mother and I forego vacations from time to time? Because we love you. We want to pay for your college education. This requires sacrifice. Sacrifice becomes palatable when a sacrifice becomes about a relationship. There will be times in your life when you want to buy something for yourself that you can’t afford. There will be times in your life that you want to make your wife happy by buying her something that you can’t afford. But the reality is that if you really value your relationship, then you will do what’s right for your family, not just instant gratification. Sometimes saying no means “I love you.” Thirty and forty year-old adults have a tough time with this concept, so I thought I would start teaching you about it early. And by early I mean five months before your first breath.

I have had the good fortune to look into the financial lives of thousands of people. I don’t take this privilege lightly. The major downfall of modern financial humanity is the inability to see the forest through the trees. Many people that read my financial thoughts often think that I’m a proponent of deprivation. When in fact, deprivation has nothing to do with it. I’m not asking people to “go without” blindly. I’m merely suggesting that people think 10 years ahead when making any financial decision. So that’s exactly what I’m asking of you. Always think 10 years ahead when making a financial decision.

When you are 18 and entering college, think about your financial decisions. Because you are likely to be paying the price for them when you are 28. When you are 25 and thinking about buying a house instead of renting, think about your life at age 35. And don’t make the false assumption that you will automatically be in a better financial position the older that you get. It’s your willingness to scrutinize important financial decisions in the moment that gives you the right to have a secure financial future.

And finally this: money has nothing to do with money. As long as you know that money is about habits, discipline, and relationships, you’ll do fine. I’m excited to teach you more about life, but I wanted to start with the basics. Life is relationships.

See you soon,

Dad

 

Pete the Planner’s guide to college planning

Saving for college has become increasingly difficult for American families. There are two primary reasons for this: 1) decreasing financial sensibility 2) college price inflation. While this blog is always dedicated to helping you overcome financial sensibility deficiency, today’s post is dedicated to helping you deal with skyrocketing college price inflation. Cool?

I very much enjoy the “college is too expensive: conversation. I’m dedicating two hours of my radio show to this very topic this coming Friday. I’ll post the podcast of the show here early next week. College education has become increasingly inefficient. Whereas technology is leveraged in many industries to decrease consumer costs, colleges (for the most part) have refused to pass on the saving to consumers. Not only that, but colleges have been able to take advantage of student loan subsidization and push college costs even higher. Check out this chart from FinAid.org. If shows college inflation compared to general inflation. College inflation is almost double general inflation. That’s not cool.

Year College Inflation General Inflation Rate Ratio
1958-1996 7.24% 4.49% 1.61
1977-1986 9.85% 6.72% 1.47
1987-1996 6.68% 3.67% 1.82
1958-2001 6.98% 4.30% 1.62
1979-2001 7.37% 3.96% 1.86
1992-2001 4.77% 2.37% 2.01
1985-2001 6.39% 3.18% 2.01
1958-2005 6.89% 4.15% 1.66
1989-2005 5.94% 2.99% 1.99

What does this mean? It means since the US Government is guaranteeing student loans, that more students can borrow. Which in turn means that demand for a college education is high. And competition to attract and retain students is even higher. This leads to some pretty nutty stuff. Why does your college have a climbing wall? Why does your alma mater have dorms nicer than most three star hotels? All of these amenities cost money. And you are paying for it. Well, your student loans are paying for it.

Am I against sending your child to college? Absolutely not. However, I am against cost inefficiency. I encourage you to seek out institutions that honor their commitment to their students’ financial futures. For instance, Grace College has a four year degree that you can earn in just three years. This reduces student tuition costs by 25%. That makes sense to me. You?

So what should you do? It’s pretty simple: plan. I guess if I was Bob the Builder I would tell you to build. But since I’m Pete the Planner, the answer is to plan. The easiest way to fund college is to fund this goal over time. If you start saving right away, then time becomes your friend. If you wait until your kid is old enough to spell college, then time is your enemy. Here’s what I mean:

$200 saved per month for 18 years (started the month your child is born) at a hypothetical 8% rate of return will give you $97,071.03 by the time college rolls around.

$200 saved per month for 12 years (started on your child’s 6th birthday) at a hypothetical 8% rate of return will give you $49,188.71 by the time college rolls around.

Waiting just 6 years cuts your college savings IN HALF!!! That’s not good, but it’s math. So don’t fight math. Use math.

Where should you put your money?

There are several ways to save for college, but choosing the right one can mean the difference between needing student loans and avoiding student loans. Your method for savings should allow you to defer taxes. This means that you don’t have to pay taxes on your investment growth. Your Roth IRA works the same way. It grows tax deferred. The most popular college savings vehicle is the 529 plan. This plan allows you to invest your money into a tax deferred education fund. The money can then be used for college expenses. But here is what makes them VERY attractive in my opinion: many states will give you a tax credit for investing in one. That basically means that you will get a tax refund for a portion of your deposit. For instance, in Indiana by depositing money into the College Choice plan, you are eligible for a 20% tax credit on your deposits up to $5,000. This means that if you deposit $5,000, then you will receive a $1000 tax credit. That means that you will possibly get a $1000 check from the state (some restrictions apply). Therefore, a $5,000 deposit can become a $6,000 deposit, if you deposit the $1,000 tax credit back into the plan.

Let’s see how that would affect our original calculations:

$240 saved per month (original $200 plus 20% from tax credit) for 18 years (started the month your child is born) at a hypothetical 8% rate of return will give you $116,485.24 by the time college rolls around.

$240 saved per month (original $200 plus 20% from tax credit) for 12 years (started on your child’s 6th birthday) at a hypothetical 8% rate of return will give you $59,026.45 by the time college rolls around.

That’s a huge increase!! And all you had to do was save into the right college savings vehicle. Be sure to check on the rules in the state in which you live. Here’s a list of the different state tax rules (provided by FinAid.org).

State 529 Deduction
Alabama $5,000 per parent ($10,000 joint)
Alaska No state income tax
Arizona $750 single or head of household/$1,500 joint (any state plan)
Arkansas $5,000 per parent ($10,000 joint)
California
Colorado Full amount of contribution
Connecticut $5,000 per parent ($10,000 joint), 5 year carryforward on excess contributions
Delaware
Florida No state income tax
Georgia $2,000 per beneficiary
Hawaii
Idaho $4,000 single/$8,000 joint
Illinois $10,000 single/$20,000 joint per beneficiary (25% tax credit for employers for matching contributions up to $500 per employee)
Indiana 20% tax credit on contributions up to $5,000 ($1,000 maximum credit)
Iowa $2,811 single/$5,622 joint per account
Kansas $3,000 single/$6,000 joint per beneficiary (any state plan), above the line exclusion from income
Kentucky
Louisiana $2,400 single/$4,800 joint per beneficiary, above the line exclusion from income, unlimited carryforward of unused deduction into subsequent years
Maine $250 per beneficiary starting 2007 (any state plan), above the line exclusion from income, phaseout at $100,000 single/$200,000 joint
Maryland $2,500 per account per beneficiary, 10 year carryforward
Massachusetts
Michigan $5,000 single/$10,000 joint, above the line exclusion from income
Minnesota
Mississippi $10,000 single/$20,000 joint, above the line exclusion from income
Missouri $8,000 single/$16,000 joint, above the line exclusion from income
Montana $3,000 single/$6,000 joint, above the line exclusion from income
Nebraska $5,000 per tax return ($2,500 if filing separate), above the line exclusion from income
Nevada No state income tax
New Hampshire
New Jersey
New Mexico Full amount of contribution, above the line exclusion from income
New York $5,000 single/$10,000 joint, above the line exclusion from income
North Carolina $2,500 single/$5,000 joint, above the line exclusion from income
North Dakota $5,000 single/$10,000 joint
Ohio $2,000 per beneficiary per contributor or married couple, above the line exclusion from income, unlimited carryforward of excess contributions
Oklahoma $10,000 single/$20,000 joint per beneficiary, above the line exclusion from income, five-year carryforward of excess contributions
Oregon $2,090 single/$4,180 joint (i.e., $2,090 per contributor) per year, above the line exclusion from income, four-year carryforward of excess contributions
Pennsylvania $13,000 per contributor per beneficiary (any state plan)
Rhode Island $500 single/$1,000 joint, above the line exclusion from income, unlimited carryforward of excess contributions
South Carolina Full amount of contribution, above the line exclusion from income
South Dakota No state income tax
Tennessee
Texas No state income tax
Utah 5% tax credit on contributions of up to $1,740 single/$3,480 joint per beneficiary (credit of $87 single/$174 joint)
Vermont 10% tax credit on up to $2,500 in contributions per beneficiary (up to $250 tax credit per taxpayer per beneficiary)
Virginia $4,000 per account per year (no limit age 70 and older), above the line exclusion from income, unlimited carryforward of excess contributions
Washington, DC $4,000 single/$8,000 joint, above the line exclusion from income
Washington No state income tax
West Virginia Full amount of contribution up to extent of income, above the line exclusion from income, five-year carryforward of excess contributions
Wisconsin $3,000 per dependent beneficiary, self or grandchild, above the line exclusion from income
Wyoming No state income tax

Some parents don’t want to pay for the cost of college. I don’t have a problem with that at all. You can always finance a college education, but you can’t finance retirement. I would just encourage you to make a decision rather than having your lack of action make your decision. I honestly think that college costs will become more efficient. I think there will be a giant student loan default crisis in the next 5 years, and this will help reset college costs. People will think twice about borrowing tons of money that they have no means of paying back. This will bring down demand, thus bringing down colleges prices. It will be exactly like what happened to the housing market in the last 4 years.

Remember, start early. It will make it much easier on you. BONUS TIP: As your child progresses through different stages of life, take advantage of expenses left behind. What does this mean? This means that when you stop spending money on diapers, increase your college contributions by the exact amount you spent on diapers. When you stop paying for daycare, make deposits into your college plan for the amount you spent on daycare. This is the absolute best way to supercharge your colleges savings plan. Good luck!! And don’t forget to listen to my podcast on this topic next week. I will post it for you.

*****Check with your investment advisor on the investment risks involved with college savings plan. Many of them are variable in nature, which means risk.******

Entitlement issues will lead to financial problems later in life

Last weeks Pete the Planner Show dealt with how your children’s entitlement issues could lead to financial trouble for everyone involved. Give it a listen. And be sure to tune into this Friday’s program that deals with the changing financial ramification of a college education. Is the four year degree inefficient and a waste of money? I say yes. Be sure to listen Friday at 7pm on 93 WIBC